AK on the GO

This was going to be a typical “Top Five” list.  AK Fam had already engaged in a number of spirited conversations, arguing and pleading and lobbying for favorite destinations to achieve AKontheGO-greatness. But we couldn’t agree. AK Dad, Kid, and I were busy in 2011, traveling in all directions to expand our sense of adventure, so how could we possibly assign rank to a particular community that really isn’t located in just one spot, or place value to one wild scenario without at least mentioning another, 1,000 miles south? Turns out, we couldn’t, but that’s the beautiful thing about Alaska, we discovered. It befuddles, amazes, enlightens, and makes us wonder. Everywhere we go.

So, friends, below is our story of 2011. Slightly abridged, a little funky, but nonethess inspiring.

OUR 2011 ALASKA EXPERIENCE BROUGHT…

A SEASONAL SHIFT: AK Fam made a decided effort in 2011 to venture out beyond the boundaries of typical summer tourism, and found delightful experiences as a result. Spring kicked off with a trip to Valdez for a wacky weekend of Bush Pilot antics at the May Day Fly-In. With hundreds of spanking-bright Bush Alaska planes buzzing in the sky like a swarm of bees, we spent three days viewing acrobatic take-offs, landings, and stuff I never imagined an airplane could attempt. We took a helicopter ride over sharp ridges of the surrounding mountains, and got to rub shoulders with heroes of Alaskan aviation. Have a hankering to do the same? Read our post from the event and make reservations for the 2012 Fly In. You won’t be disappointed.

The Interior city of Fairbanks also delivered in 2011. Fall and mid-winter visits deposited us in temperatures that fluctuated between 65 F and -25 F, but also afforded us a rare opportunity to capture four seasons at Creamer’s Field, where year-round recreation opportunities are abundant and children receive a real-time look at the diversity of meadow and boreal forest environments. Late summer brought leggy, squawking Sandhill Cranes, fall was resplendent in yellows and oranges of fast-changing trees, and we experienced, firsthand, the throes of winter with a flat, gray-beige palette of color, beautiful for its stark contrast.

BIG ADVENTURES: If AK Fam gleaned one tiny bit of insight this past year, it was the realization that life is indeed made up of precious moments that somehow become a glorious tapestry of impressions later on.

As a Father’s Day present for AK Dad, and perhaps a reward for staying alive after a mountain bike accident nearly killed him,  K2 Aviation flew us around Mt. McKinley one fine summer day. A seasoned pilot provided narration and expert skills, the Mountain provided our backdrop, and all we had to do was stand on a glacier with our mouths hanging open. An ampitheatre of craggy granite, a creaking ice field, and we, smaller than small upon centuries of snow on a June day we thought would never be. You won’t get closer to North America’s highest peak, or heaven, than this. Do it.

I did BIG this year, all right. Right into the path of a water-soaked, protective, and slightly stinky Coastal Brown Bear sow and about 10 of her cohorts at Hallo Bay Bear Camp. This adventure was perhaps the most visceral; one half-day trip and one three-day immersion into the world of bears, on their turf and by their terms. Who do we think we are, anyway? Spend time with the bruins of Hallo Bay and your older child will begin to ask him or herself that question, guaranteed. This is the place for learning about bears’ habits and habitats with guides who not only know bears, they know how to explain it to people like me. Twice, in fact. Here’s why.

CULTURAL CONNECTIONS: Alaska is also made up of people. People whose ancestors lived and died hard upon the soil, sand, and mud; people who knew far more about the cycles of life than anything I could dream up, because their very survival depended upon it. Salmon, caribou, moose, bear, sun, moon; everything has a place and every place a story, and all are woven carefully into the First People. A visit to Alaska would not be complete without listening carefully.

Sitka National Historical Park is a 113-acre storyboard of epic battles and lives forever changed by a clash of cultures. The Totem Trail is a must-do, with nearly two miles of rainforest shielding tall totems that stand as silent sentries. Feel this place in your soul; hike it early in the morning or later in the evening when crowds are thinner and light filters gently between the hemlock branches. You’ll almost want to whisper. Take a detour to the beach and spy eagles resting among the trees or rocky outcroppings, and listen carefully for the splash of spawning salmon. We were charmed.

Sometimes we stumbled upon meaningful moments. It happened this fall at the Morris Thompson Cultural and Visitor Center in Fairbanks. Void of crowds, the building was quiet that Saturday morning as we walked through a wonderful collection of Interior artifacts, information, and interactive displays. A cooperative effort among Fairbanks Convention and Visitors Center, Tanana Valley Chiefs, and Alaska Public Lands Centers, the facility is a transformational example of cultural character intertwined with visitor appreciation. I heard an example of this as I rounded a corner near the Hall of Elders, designed as a “talking circle” for various events and activities. Silhouettes from two fiddle players emerged, quietly playing an old waltz while life flowed around them. One was elder, the other, a young man, and both focused with rapt attention upon their instruments and the music they had created together. They never acknowledged my presence in the dark corner of the hall, and I never spoke to them, lest the magic be interrupted.

A UNIQUE VIEW: If I had to list one favorite trip for 2011, it would be exploring southeast Alaska courtesy of the Alaska Marine Highway System. Juneau, Skagway, Sitka, Wrangell, and Ketchikan aboard a collection of AMHS vessels so integral to the fabric of the 49th state that their very existence is a worthwhile destination. We wound our way through the stunning Inside Passage, stopping at tiny communities like Kake, where the Dog Salmon Festival was in full swing and where our boat was greeted by Native elders beating drums and waving oars. We visited Wrangell, where the beating of Alaska’s heart continues in a decided rhythm that doesn’t change, even as the rest of the world urges it to do so. The ferries provided simple lodging, great food, classic service, and the gift of time. And time, AKontheGO’ers, is something we were eternally grateful for, this year. Follow our journey aboard AMHS ferries here.

Where will we go in 2012? Anywhere, I suppose. Or everywhere. Watch us and see.

EK

If I close my eyes, I can transport myself back a hundred years. The deep, steady rhythm of engines churning their way through the Alaska’s Inside Passage is much the same today as it was back in the late 1800′s, when a gold rush brought thousands to the Last Frontier. Our family is spending two weeks exploring the nooks and crannies of southeast Alaska aboard the state’s well-loved ferry system. Immersed in both maritime culture and a healthy dose of territorial history, we are discovering how a fleet of ten ships manages to weave together past and present among the Alaskan communities they serve.

The Alaska Marine Highway System has served southcentral and southwest areas of the state since 1963. Covering a 3,500-mile route and docking at 33 ports, AMHS is much more than an indie traveler’s dream; with many Alaskan communities reachable solely by air or water, the ferry system is vital transportation to the residents living and working in these areas. Touring passengers mingle with local school kids on their way to field trips, families traveling to a larger center for medical treatment or shopping excursions, and small businesses transporting goods for sale at local stores. It’s a delightful color wheel of people, and the perfect way to see “real Alaska,” up close and personal. The Marine Highway is also the only maritime route designated an All-American Road due to its outstanding scenery and importance for residents of Alaska, quite a feat.

Charting our course aboard the M/V Columbia from Skagway to Sitka.

Choosing a trip to Alaska via the ferry is a fairly simple procedure, thanks to an extensive website operated by the State of Alaska. Ferries leave on a regular basis from many ports of call in southeast Alaska, Prince Rupert, B.C., and Bellingham, Washington, and reservations agents are helpful in designing itineraries to fit budgets of both time and money. Over the course of 14 days, we’ve hiked, biked, watched wildlife, eaten great food, and been taught valuable lessons in Alaskan history in the most intimate of ways. Every day brings a new teachable moment, whether we are standing ten feet from a black bear, inspecting ancient totem poles, or talking with a sourdough who mines a nearby creek. This is not just vacation; this is who we are. Here’s how your family can jump in, too:

RESERVATIONS/INFORMATION: Visit the Alaska Marine Highway website for the latest schedules, routes, and specials for the current year. Calendar year schedules are posted by January 1 (and many reservations must be made soon after for the following summer, popular for travel). Unsure where to start or end, or where to go in between? Call  1-800-642-0066 and ask a reservations agent to outline a few itineraries based upon your family’s age and interests.

AK Kid crashes hard in his stateroom bunk after a 1 a.m. departure from Sitka.

SCHEDULES: The only drawback to utlizing a state-run transportation system is that a passenger must adhere to their schedule, sometimes catching an outgoing boat or disembarking an incoming one in the middle of the night. I will admit I was a bit afraid of this aspect of ferry travel, envisioning all sorts of late-night tantrums and meltdowns of volcanic proportions, but so far, we have had neither. Hotels and lodges are used to this sort of thing and almost always allow ferry passengers to hang out in their lobbies until boarding time. Same goes for stashing luggage; just mention your needs when booking a room. Whew.

COST: Both the website and the magazine/schedule for the calendar year will provide some grids and tables of cost, since the whole system can be a bit overwhelming to first-timers. The long and the short of it (literally) is that everybody is a’la carte; foot passengers, vehicles, drivers, and trailers/gear are all separate entities aboard AMHS. Vehicles are charged by the foot, and can be expensive, so carefully consider all the options before taking the plunge.

We found the cost, compared with a) cruise ships and b) summertime hotel rates in popular destinations to be reasonable, especially when it came to overall family comfort. A stateroom, in our humble opinion, is a must for quiet and comfortable sleeping arrangements with kids, and can be arranged for around $100/night, depending upon the route and your desired accommodation. Remember, you are arranging a night aboard a floating hotel, of sorts, and try finding a room for that amount anywhere in Alaska from May-September. Plus, a stateroom aboard the ferry has a decided vintage feel reminscent of rail or steamships of old; we love this aspect of ferry travel. Love. It.

Breakfast in the classy dining room aboard the M/V Columbia.

AMENITIES: The AMHS literature states quite clearly that a ferry is not a cruise ship. There are no porters, lounge singers, or formal programs for passengers. That said, our family found plenty to amuse a six year-old child (and the grownups) for the duration of each leg of the journey. Every ship has a cafeteria or full-service restaurant, depending upon the route. Good food, reasonable prices, and ample portions kept us full and happy. Movie theaters, video arcades, and toddler play areas are aboard most ships. Particularly along the Inside Passage, where views and wildlife captivate just about anyone, USFS rangers operate information booths during the summer months, and offer short presentations about ports of call and activities in each. For a complete description of each vessel’s features, visit the AMHS website.

We took along a backpack filled with kid-pleasing activities, of course, ranging from games to books to the all-valuable DVD player, but in all honesty, we did not need them that much. Our son found other kids with whom to roam, whales to spot, and sunshine in which to curl up. The lap of waves against the hull and excitement of water travel made for a pretty exciting series of days.

On the bridge of M/V Taku, headed through the "narrows" between Petersburg and Wrangell.

AMHS captains love to show off “their” ships, we found, when invited to visit the bridge of the M/V Taku, one of the oldest and most-loved boats in the fleet. Up top, Captain Tom Moore showed off this steel beauty as we navigated the harbor near Kake, Alaska, a small native village that happened to be celebrating their annual Dog Salmon Festival. Captain Moore, ever the gentleman, let us watch docking, then drove us off the boat to a local fish hatchery and on to the festival grounds, where he led the flag-raising ceremony to kick off the day’s events. Later in the evening he allowed us back up top to witness the tricky passage through the “narrows”, a series of twisting, teeth-clenching serpentines out of Petersburg. Sitting in the pilot’s seat, AK Kid saw firsthand the skill and precision by which these ships navigate southeast Alaska’s rocky fjords and waterways.

Take a look around southeast Alaska, you might be surprised at what your family will find!

PORTS OF CALL: Get off whenever you can. Take the printed reciept and go, if only for a few minutes. Stretch the kids’ legs or wander into town if time permits (and often it does). Alaska’s smaller communities can be delightful examples of hometown hospitality, and you’d be remiss to skip at least a bit of that in between destinations.

The AMHS website has great links to all the communities served by the ferry system, and all have distinct attributes worth visiting; a helpful tool for planning.

This trip is turning out to be more than a typical vacation. It is about who we are, the value of which will last much longer than the two weeks away from home.